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Beach and fish huts · Kingston

Hellshire Beach, Portmore: a local's guide

By Michael RainfordBorn and raised in JamaicaPrices & hours checked Sources
Fish shacks by the sea at Hellshire Beach with hills across the water
On this page
  1. My local take
  2. How to get there
  3. What to expect
  4. Local tips
  5. Before you go
  6. FAQ
  7. Sources

My local take

Hellshire is where Kingston goes to eat fish. The beach at Half Moon Bay, near Portmore, is lined with fish huts and small restaurants run by the fishing community, and the Half Moon Bay Fishermen’s Cooperative operates it. You pick a fish from the cooler, it’s weighed, and it comes back fried or steamed, usually with festival or bammy. Growing up in Jamaica, a Sunday or a public holiday at Hellshire was a family tradition. It still is: weekends are packed, loud and lively. For the rest of the area, from the races at Caymanas Park to the cinema, see things to do in Portmore.

Go for the food, not for a beach day. Erosion has taken most of the sand. It started after hurricanes Ivan and Dean in the mid-2000s, and a study summarized in the Jamaica Observer found the main beach had lost up to 33 meters of shoreline over 15 years. What’s left is a narrow strip in front of the huts. In April 2026 the environment minister said NEPA is preparing a master plan for a multi-year restoration, but nothing has been rebuilt yet. Fort Clarence, the paid beach park next door, is the better choice if swimming is your priority and it’s open.

I was at Hellshire in October 2026: several huts are frying fish, but not every hut has reopened since the 2025 hurricane, so the choice is smaller than it used to be. My take: go on a weekday for a calmer lunch, or a Sunday if you want the full local scene.

Make a day of it in Kingston with Devon House and the Bob Marley Museum. For the wider area, see our Kingston guide.

How to get there

Hellshire is on the coast south of Portmore, in St Catherine. From New Kingston, cross into Portmore on the causeway or the toll road and follow the signs for Hellshire. Allow roughly 30 to 45 minutes by car, longer in weekend and holiday traffic. Fort Clarence is on the same stretch of coast.

From Ocho Rios or Montego Bay, it is too far for a casual lunch. Stay in Kingston and go from there; Knutsford Express runs scheduled coaches into Kingston from the north coast.

Without a car: Take a licensed JUTA taxi from Kingston and agree the waiting time or pickup time first. Route taxis run from Portmore toward Hellshire, but a taxi is simpler for visitors.

What to expect

The fish huts line the shore. Each one keeps its catch on ice: snapper, parrotfish and other reef fish, plus lobster and shrimp when they have them. You choose your fish, it’s weighed and priced by the pound, and it’s fried, steamed or roasted while you wait. The usual sides are festival, bammy and fried plantain. Drinks are sold at the huts and by vendors.

There’s no designated parking and few facilities, and the beach is unlicensed, which means there are no lifeguards you can count on. Fort Clarence, next door, is a gated beach park with a separate entry fee. The Urban Development Corporation handed its management to Guardsman in 2019, and it reopened in phases from 2022. Check its current hours and prices before you go.

Fried fish with festival and bammy on colorful plates at Hellshire Beach
Photo: Michael Rainford (Own photo)

Local tips

  • Confirm the price with the seller before you sit down to eat: the price per pound, the weight and the total, so there’s no surprise bill. Going with a local helps, because they know which huts to trust and how to talk price.

  • Bring Jamaican dollars in small notes. Most huts are cash businesses.

  • Expect a wait on a Sunday or a public holiday. Order, then sit by the water while your fish cooks.

  • If you want a proper swim, check whether Fort Clarence next door is open, pay to use it, and come back to the huts to eat.

Before you go

  • There are no guaranteed lifeguards, and the water near the huts is often murky. On January 1, 2026, a woman died and a police officer and a 13-year-old boy were feared drowned in a strong current at nearby Sand Hills beach in Hellshire, which has signs saying swimming is not permitted. Swim only where locals swim and never alone.
  • Weekends and public holiday weekends are very crowded and loud, and traffic into Portmore can be slow.
  • Men offering to watch or park your car will expect a tip. Accepting is up to you.

Questions people ask

What is Hellshire Beach known for?

Fried fish. The beach near Portmore is lined with fish huts where you choose your fish, it’s weighed and cooked to order, and served with festival or bammy. It is one of Kingston’s favorite weekend outings.

How far is Hellshire Beach from Kingston?

It is in St Catherine, south of Portmore, across the harbor from Kingston. Allow roughly 30 to 45 minutes by car from New Kingston, more in weekend traffic.

Is Hellshire Beach good for swimming?

Not really. Erosion has taken most of the sand, and there are no guaranteed lifeguards. Fort Clarence, the paid beach park next door, is the better choice for a swim; check that it’s open before you go.

How do you avoid being overcharged at Hellshire?

Confirm the price per pound, the weight and the total with the seller before you sit down to eat. Going with someone who knows the beach helps.

Sources & updates

Update log

  • — Rewritten as a researched guide; facts re-checked. Removed first-person visit claims and the unsourced horseback-riding note. Post-hurricane status noted as unconfirmed.
  • — Status changed to open (local check): several fish huts serving, not all reopened. Added erosion detail and the NEPA restoration plan. Removed repeated pricing advice.
  • — Dated Michael's October 2026 visit in the local take
  • — Added internal links to related guides
  • — Trimmed hurricane references to where they change the advice

Spotted something out of date? Tell me and I’ll check it.

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