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Beach and jerk pits · Portland

Boston Bay and the Boston Jerk Centre, Portland: a local's guide

By Michael RainfordBorn and raised in JamaicaPrices & hours checked Sources
On this page
  1. My local take
  2. How to get there
  3. What to expect
  4. Local tips
  5. Before you go
  6. FAQ
  7. Sources

My local take

Every Jamaican knows the name Boston. The Tourist Board credits this small Portland community as the birthplace of jerk and of the first jerk cooked for sale, and the roadside pits that grew into the Boston Jerk Centre go back to the 1940s. Today it’s a row of small jerk shops along the main road, each with its own pit, and just below them is Boston Bay, a little curved beach that is one of the few places in Jamaica with waves worth surfing. My take: come for the jerk pork first, the way it was sold here from the start with roast breadfruit and festival, then walk down to the water. It’s the most Jamaican lunch stop on the whole Portland coast.

As for status: the Tourist Board lists Boston Beach as open, and the Jamaica Information Service has reported the jerk shops up and running. It isn’t a polished stop. It’s loud, smoky and run by small vendors, which is the point. If you want a calmer swim, the sea at Boston can be rough, so plan your proper beach time elsewhere and treat this as lunch with a view.

A few minutes back west along the coast is Winnifred Beach, the free public beach locals swim at, and further east is Reach Falls. If you’re comparing jerk spots around the island, see my guide to the best places for jerk in Jamaica, and for the wider area, my Portland guide.

How to get there

Boston is right on the main coast road east of Port Antonio. Heading east from town you pass San San, with the Blue Lagoon and Frenchman’s Cove, then Fairy Hill, and Boston comes up soon after. The jerk shops are by the road, so you can’t miss the smoke. Allow roughly 15 to 20 minutes’ drive from Port Antonio; that’s an estimate, not a timed route.

From Kingston, allow roughly two and a half to three hours, either over the hills to Port Antonio or along the coast through St Thomas. From Ocho Rios, it’s about three hours along the north coast. From Montego Bay it’s a very long day, so most people stop here as part of a stay in Portland or on the way to Reach Falls.

Without a car: From Kingston, JUTC's new Route 710 runs to Port Antonio through St Thomas, Monday to Saturday, and Knutsford Express also has connections to Portland. From Port Antonio, route taxis run east along the coast road, or take a licensed JUTA taxi and agree the price and pickup time first.

What to expect

The Boston Jerk Centre is a cluster of small, independent jerk shops on the roadside, not one restaurant. The Tourist Board names Ivy’s Jerk Centre and Shaggy’s Jerk Shop, which stand on the sites of the area’s third and fourth jerk pits. Jerk pork is the tradition here, but the shops also sell jerk chicken, fish, lobster and sides. When the Jamaica Information Service visited, one owner listed fish, lobster, jerk pork, jerk chicken, sweet potato, roast breadfruit, festival and soup.

Below the road, Boston Bay is a small beach in a sheltered, curved bay. The Tourist Board calls Boston Beach one of the best places in Jamaica to catch waves, and local surfers give lessons and rent boards on the sand. The Gleaner has covered surf retreats here, with local instructors teaching visiting surfers. Facilities are basic, so think of it as a local beach with surf, not a managed beach club.

One thing worth knowing: in September 2024 the Portland Health Department closed the jerk center over sanitation problems and uninspected meat, before the vendors worked through the requirements and reopened. That’s a reason to pick a busy shop where the meat is coming straight off the fire, not a reason to skip Boston.

Local tips

  • Come at lunchtime, when the pits are full and the meat is turning over quickly.

  • Ask the price before you order. Jerk here is often sold by weight, so say how much you want and ask what it comes to.

  • Bring Jamaican cash in small notes. These are small vendors, and some may not take cards.

  • If you want a surf lesson, agree the price, the time on the water and what’s included before you paddle out. A polite no is fine if you just want to watch.

Before you go

  • Hours and prices aren’t published anywhere official; each shop sets its own.
  • Boston isn’t on the Tourism Ministry’s list of free public bathing beaches, so there may be a small charge to use the beach or park.
  • The waves that make it good for surfing also make it a poor beach for weak swimmers and small children. Check the sea before anyone goes in, and watch for rocks and reef.
  • Expect people offering lessons, boards and food.
  • On a quiet weekday not every shop may be firing.

Questions people ask

Is Boston Bay the birthplace of jerk?

The Jamaica Tourist Board credits Boston, Portland as the original birthplace of jerk and of the first jerk cooked for commercial sale in Jamaica. The roadside pits that became the Boston Jerk Centre date back to the 1940s, and the Tourist Board says jerk began as a way of cooking wild boar or pork. The Jamaica Information Service ties the tradition to the Maroons.

Is the Boston Jerk Centre open?

Yes, as far as official sources show. The Jamaica Information Service has reported the vendors selling, and the Tourist Board lists Boston Beach as open. Each shop sets its own hours, so lunchtime is the safest bet.

Can you surf at Boston Bay?

Yes. The Tourist Board calls Boston Beach one of the best places in Jamaica to catch waves, and local surfers give lessons and rent boards on the beach. Waves vary from day to day, so ask on the beach what the sea is doing before you book a lesson.

How far is Boston Bay from Port Antonio?

Boston is on the main coast road east of Port Antonio, past San San and Fairy Hill. Allow roughly 15 to 20 minutes by car.

Is Boston Beach free?

It isn’t on the Tourism Ministry’s list of free public bathing beaches, so there may be a small charge to use the beach or park. Bring Jamaican cash.

Sources & updates

Update log

  • — New researched guide; status and facts checked.
  • — Moved source citations out of the text
  • — Removed repeated advice
  • — Trimmed hurricane references to where they change the advice

Spotted something out of date? Tell me and I’ll check it.