River and wildlife boat tour · South Coast

Black River Safari, St Elizabeth: a local's guide

Open with a reduced fleet. Check the latest before you go; details are in the guide below.

Black River Safari

No car?

There's no simple public transport from the resort areas. Book one of the operator's tours with transport from Montego Bay or Negril, or hire a licensed JUTA taxi for the day and agree the price and waiting time first.

On this page
  1. My local take
  2. How to get there
  3. What to expect
  4. Local tips
  5. Before you go
  6. FAQ
  7. Sources

My local take

Status first. Black River town took some of the worst of Hurricane Melissa, and J. Charles Swaby’s Black River Safari lost or had its whole fleet stranded in the morass. It reopened in December with two boats and has been building back since. In March the managing director, Joseph Ryan Swaby, told the Jamaica Observer that five of the six boats had been recovered, three were running, and the safari could carry up to 80 people at a time. Tours are on sale on the operator’s booking page now, so it’s open, just smaller than before. Book ahead rather than turning up, because there are fewer boats to go around.

The safari is a slow, guided cruise into the Black River Lower Morass, a protected wetland, with a captain explaining the history and the wildlife as you go. The stars are the American crocodiles, which you see in the wild along the banks. It suits families, birders and anyone who wants a gentle couple of hours on the water rather than a climb or a swim. The town itself is still being rebuilt, so expect a working, recovering place rather than a polished tourist stop. My take: it’s the South Coast’s best half-day for seeing wildlife, and it works best as part of a full day with a swim and lunch nearby.

Pair it with YS Falls, inland from Black River and open again, or a boat out to Floyd’s Pelican Bar. For more of the area, see my South Coast guide.

How to get there

The safari is at 1 Crane Road in Black River town, St Elizabeth, on the river near the Black River bridge. From Montego Bay, allow roughly two hours each way by road, and from Negril roughly an hour and a half. These are estimates, not timed routes, and some roads in St Elizabeth were still being repaired after the hurricane, so leave extra time. From YS Falls it’s a short drive back down to the coast.

The operator sells half-day and full-day tours with round-trip transport from Montego Bay or Negril, including a combination with YS Falls and lunch. If you’re driving, aim to arrive a little before your booked tour time.

What to expect

J. Charles Swaby’s Black River Safari has run tours since November 1987. The boat tour covers about 4 miles of the Black River, which the operator calls Jamaica’s longest navigable river, and runs into the mangroves and wetlands of the Lower Morass. Your captain gives a running commentary on the river, its history and the wildlife. The operator says crocodiles, wading birds and mangroves are the main sights, and in December Swaby told the Observer the boats were seeing 10 to 20 crocodiles on a tour as wildlife displaced by the storm moved around.

The booking page lists the whole tour at about 1 hour and 15 minutes, with roughly an hour on the boat followed by a stop at the crocodile nursery, where the safari rescues and rehabilitates crocodiles. The nursery was badly damaged in the hurricane, when one of the boats was flipped on top of it, so ask when you book whether it’s fully open. The property also has the Black River Interactive Museum, with QR-code exhibits and a big screen on the town’s history and the river’s wildlife.

The online price for overseas visitors is US$30 for adults and US$15 for children aged 3 to 11. Jamaican residents with valid ID pay US$20 and US$10. Private charters, fishing trips, birdwatching trips and tours with transport cost extra. Prices change, so check current prices on the official site before you go.

Local tips

  • Book online or by WhatsApp before you drive down. With fewer boats running, a tour time can fill up, especially when school groups are in.
  • The safari's landline was listed as temporarily down, so use the WhatsApp number on the official contact page (+1 876-883-9215).
  • Bring a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. The operator also suggests bringing ID and cash or a card for food, drinks and souvenirs.
  • Go in the morning if you can, so you have time for YS Falls or Pelican Bar after.
  • Stay seated and keep your hands inside the boat. These are wild crocodiles, not a show.

Before you go

  • The fleet is smaller than it was before Hurricane Melissa, so tours can be busier and you may have to wait for a later departure.
  • Black River town is still recovering from the hurricane, with damaged buildings and ongoing repairs. Be patient on the roads.
  • The crocodile nursery was damaged in the storm. Ask when you book whether it’s open before you count on it.
  • In April a tour boat lost power just after leaving the dock and drifted until other boats secured it; everyone was moved off safely. The operator says life jackets are carried on every boat.
  • You board from a river dock, and the operator doesn’t publish accessibility details. Message ahead if mobility is a concern.

Questions people ask

Is the Black River Safari open after Hurricane Melissa?

Yes, with a reduced fleet. It reopened in December with two boats, and in March the operator told the Jamaica Observer that three boats were running with room for up to 80 people at a time. Tours are on sale on the official booking page.

How much is the Black River Safari?

The official booking page lists US$30 for adults and US$15 for children aged 3 to 11, for the boat tour and crocodile nursery. Jamaican residents with valid ID pay US$20 and US$10. Prices change, so check the official site before you go.

How long is the Black River Safari boat tour?

The operator lists the tour at about 1 hour and 15 minutes, with around an hour on the river and then the crocodile nursery. It covers about 4 miles of the river.

Can you do the Black River Safari and YS Falls in one day?

Yes. YS Falls is a short drive inland from Black River, and the safari sells combined tours, including one with lunch and transport from Montego Bay or Negril.

Is St Elizabeth Safari open too?

St Elizabeth Safari Crocodile Tour is a separate operator on the other side of the river. In March its owner, Dr Donovan Bennett, told the Observer it was open with some boats but not fully running, and he aimed to be fully operational by May. Contact it directly before you go.

Sources & updates

Update log

  • — New researched guide. Open with a reduced fleet after Hurricane Melissa; prices and tour times from the operator's booking page.

Spotted something out of date? Tell me and I’ll check it.